I am confused about a few questions concerning the Fender Stratocaster tremolo block from the 1960′s. First of all did the sting hole depth in the back of the  block change over the years , and is it normal for the top bridge plate to have rough cast edges . I know there is a bunch of posts on this subject but i figured you would know with all your hands on experience.

REPLY

Thank you for your kind words. I Will give you info from what i have found over the years. The back of the block were the ball end of the string goes in had two depths. In the 1950″s to mid 1960″s the holes dilled in the block were more shallow. for instance when you look at the back of the block you can see the depth of the  hole about 1/2 of an inch  or a tad more i do not have one to measure the exact depth but it is visible lets say . By the later part of the od the 1960 ‘s say around 1967 the hole in the block to accommodate the strings ball end was much deeper lets say and inch or a bit more . This was to accommodate for new string designs i was told by an old timer.  Both are correct and both are real but that is the approximate time line i believe for the change . Again for the 1967 era remember Leo Fender never threw anything away so it is possible lets say in 1968 or earl y 1969 to still see a shallow hole block sometimes old stock was found and used .this is just a reference year but I have seen deep blocks from around 1967.

The bridge plate that screws onto the top of the block does has rough cast edges. Why I have no idea and fender certainly had the technology to clean them up but all era fenders have this rough cast edge on the blocks and that is a fact. I wouldassume it was just another cost cutting and time saving method since it does not look bad and most do not even notice,  I hope this helps you can always send us  the block to evaluated for you for free or if you a re not sure or send us pictures we will be glad to help.

A quick note to a company retrospec makes a vintage Fender Tremolo block that is virtually impossible to tell they even age them so be careful. These are the best I have ever seen and I am sure many crooks will try and pass these as real so buy from someone who will guarantee authenticity . If you have any further questions fee free to e mail me at THE PARTS DRAWER and I Will answer all e mails within 48 hours

Jim Pasch